VW Bug Parts - Engine Parts, Suspension Parts, Brake Parts & More!

Dune Buggy Warehouse is your Midwest source for Vintage VW Beetle Parts!

We stock a wide variety of parts for your air-cooled VW Beetle. Our inventory includes many parts for your VW bug engine, suspension, shifter, chassis brakes and body.

With competitive price and timely delivery, Yunqi Automobile Parts sincerely hope to be your supplier and partner.

VW Beetles have been in production since the late s. While VW beetles feature simple technology compared to modern cars, there are several variations of VW bugs throughout the years.

It is important to know key information about your bug before selecting parts.

• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Alternators
• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Brakes
• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Axles
• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Cables
• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Carburetors
• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Clutches
• Click here to Shop VW Bug Electronic Ignitions
• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Electrical
• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Engine Parts
• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Exhausts
• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Fuel System
• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Distributors
• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Oil
• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Roof Racks
• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Shifters
• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Steering
• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Suspension
• Click Here to Shop VW Bug Wheel Bearings

VW Beetle Parts Changes By Model Years

We stock both early and late VW Beetle parts. Most people consider Beetles made from - "early Beetles" and Beetles made from - " late Beetles."

Many VW bug enthusiasts also differentiate between "small window" and "big window" VW Beetles. Small window VW Beetles were made until and feature many unique body and window parts to big window beetles made from - .

Engine parts, suspension parts, brake parts and chassis parts vary between early beetles and late Beetles.

Early Beetles featured a swing axle transmission, link pin front suspension, 5x205mm bolt pattern wheels, low back seats, 6 volt electrics and model specific body parts. Engines in early VW bugs was a cc single port engine that kept developing more horsepower through the years. It started with a 25 HP engine, then went to a 36 HP engine. The final iterations of the cc single port engine was a 40 horsepower engine that ran through .

Beetles were the first to have ball joint front ends and had a one year only cc single port engine. was a transition year featuring many unique hard to find body parts and the first year for 12V electronics, sealed beam headlights, a cc engine and dual circuit brakes.

Beetles made in still had a swing axle, but featured updated safety features like a padded dash, heavier bumpers and high back seats. Also beetle wheel bolt patterns changed in from five lugs to a 4x130mm bolt pattern.

In VW added all new rear end parts to Beetles. It was the first year for independent rear suspension transmissions with CV joints rather than solid axles.

VW increased engine displacement from a cc Single Port to a cc Single Port in . Then in the famous VW dual port cc engine came was introduced. That is also when the improved doghouse oil cooler was added to improve engine cooling.

VW Beetles featured a generator charging system until , when an alternator was added as a standard feature.

The company is the world’s best VW engine parts supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.

Larger 5 mph Impact bumpers were added in to all Beetles.

Fuel injection became a standard feature for bugs from until the end of production.

How to Tell An Early Beetle From A Late Beetle:

Early Beetles and Late Beetles have many different exterior parts that can help tell them apart. There are several quick things you can look at on a bug to tell roughly what year it is. Some of the most obvious things are the bumpers and headlights. Early Beetles have glass enclosures around their headlights and small stamped steel bumpers, which usually feature over-riders and towel bars. Late Beetles have sealed beam headlights with heavier more square bumpers. Also early Beetle hoods come down to more of a crest, where late Beetles have a wider peak.

Early and Late VW bugs als have very different rear ends. There are several rear end parts that will distinguish and early bug from a late bug. Bumpers are a big giveaway. Early Beeltes had smaller stamped steel rear bumpers, similar to their fronts, while late Beetles featued heavier more square heavier steel bumpers. The rear decklids also help identify the year of a Beetle. Finally, tail lights became larger and larger. The earliest Beetles had very small tail lights while the latest Beetles had tail lights that were probably five times as large. The same goes for the rear window. The smaller the rear window the earlier the bug.

VW Bug Parts Variance

There are many other minute changes between model years and special editions of bugs. Also a beetles standard parts can vary depending on the original country of manufacturer or import. Our notes on production parts are specfic to American delivered Beetles.

Also it is important to remember that Super Beetle had a different front end than standard beetles of the same years. Parts are shared between VW Beetles and Super Beetles from the front doors back for the same model years.

VW is famous for mid year model changes. It is not uncommon for cars to receive a different part half way through the production year. We always recommend checking for application changes between years.

Buying the Correct Part for Your VW Bug

No matter what year bug you have it saves time and heartache to buy the correct part the first time. It is always a good idea to take a good look at your car and the particular part needed before ordering a replacement part for you VW beetle.

There are several basic factors you can keep in mind when ordering parts for your car.

10 Things to Know When Buying VW Bug Parts

1. Know what year your beetle is.
2. Know if you have a ball joint ('66-'77) or link pin ('49-'65) front beam.
3. For Ball Joint Front Beams Note that '66-'67 & '68 have unique parts compared to '69-'77 Bugs.
4. Know if you have a swing axle or IRS transmission,
5. Know what wheel bolt pattern is on your car: 5x205mm or 4x130mm or custom.
6. Look up what engine you have by the number on the engine case. ID number is beneath alternator / generator stand.
7. Double check part number compatibility for your year and application.
8. Note any custom accessories, different body parts, engine or chassis components when ordering
9. Note if your car is cabureted ('49-'74) or fuel injected ('75-'79)
10. Consider surrounding components, like gaskets or hardware, that may need replaced when replacing a part.

We Can Help You With VW Bug Parts Application Questions

If you have questions about your particular VW bug application please check out our DIY page for information videos, tips and instructions. Also feel free to contact us about questions. Click Here to See Our DIY Page

Buying a VW Beetle

Do you have questions about buying a particular VW Beetle? Check out our VW Bug Buyer's Guide.

Are you interested in learning more about VW suspension parts? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!

Hi forum,

I would have wished that my first post would have been on a different topic, but here we are.

We have received the sad news that our 180 Cali needs a new engine, since the current one has been considered defect (excessive oil use, EGR valve with C suffix etc. etc.). We have no insurance or warranty left to cover this, but besides this, we love the car and everything else on it working flawlessly except for the engine, so we just want to swallow the bitter pill, get the engine replaced and move on with our lives, preferably with the car.

VW has given us a price estimate around 15-16K euro for fitting a new engine, and we're now thinking about going somewhere else to get it fixed and hopefully save some money. My question is - what should we think about when talking to potential garages? Which parts of the engine do we want to make sure is changed, not to end up in the same situation again? Do we want to get an original engine from VW? Are refurbished engines from e.g. Poland to be aware of, or could that be a feasible alternative? In short - I want to gather all information I can to ensure this is done right, and would appreciate all help and advice you could provide. Just remember that the engine is a VW Transporter engine. This will give you more options to find another Transporter/commercial vehicle garage.

There are many companies who will install a replacement and reconditioned engine for you. Many will come with a warranty.

Yes it is a fairly large job to replace an engine, but the vans are designed for such a job, and providing the garage you select are familiar with VW transporters then this should not be an issue.

In the document pack there should be a large white sticker. This is the VW factory build sticker.

It lists the component details (codes) for the major items and extras installed.

This will help the garage to identify the spec and variant of engine you have. Find a VW/VAG specialist (probably doesn't even have to be a van specialist, just a VW specialist) and explain the situation to see what options they have. It might be repairable for less than a swap if everything else is good. VW aren't interested in such an approach as they like to just replace bits, but an independent who knows what they're doing may take a different attitute.

If it does need changing, second hand engines obtained from a scrappy are definitely cheaper that VW will be, the labour cost will be making up half of the cost I should think. I would see exactly what VW are including in their cost, e.g. is it just the engine, or does it include turbo, intercoolers, gearbox etc. etc. - given how VW approach things, I wouldn't be surprised if they don't include a load of ancillaries as part of the "package" as they consider them a single system.

If going second hand, it's making sure the engine is decent (and I know, that's not easy to diagnose). It's unlikely a scrappy engine will have much or any history, so you'll be looking at things like compression, state of the turbos (things like impeller shaft play, sticking variable vane actuator if it has one), oil condition, "mayo" under the oil cap, state of timing/aux belts etc. - a lot of unknowns, although theoretically nothing worse than the risk you'd take on a second hand vehicle anyway.

Hi forum,

I would have wished that my first post would have been on a different topic, but here we are.

We have received the sad news that our 180 Cali needs a new engine, since the current one has been considered defect (excessive oil use, EGR valve with C suffix etc. etc.). We have no insurance or warranty left to cover this, but besides this, we love the car and everything else on it working flawlessly except for the engine, so we just want to swallow the bitter pill, get the engine replaced and move on with our lives, preferably with the car.

VW has given us a price estimate around 15-16K euro for fitting a new engine, and we're now thinking about going somewhere else to get it fixed and hopefully save some money. My question is - what should we think about when talking to potential garages? Which parts of the engine do we want to make sure is changed, not to end up in the same situation again? Do we want to get an original engine from VW? Are refurbished engines from e.g. Poland to be aware of, or could that be a feasible alternative? In short - I want to gather all information I can to ensure this is done right, and would appreciate all help and advice you could provide.

Firstly, commiserations.
Next, how long do you intend keeping the vehicle? 10 yrs or so, or a lot less?
The high oil consumption is due to damage to the cylinder bores . As a minimum the engine block, crankshaft , pistons, oil pump, DPF and EGR valve, oil cooler and turbo charger need to be changed for longevity and cylinder head checked and possibly refurbished.
If you are looking longterm then a new engine fitted by VW or a good independent specialist is the way forward.
If shorterm then a refurbished engine and components and if realy shorterm a 2nd hand engine block and sell.
Be aware, non of the above can guarantee this not happening. All EGR variants have been implicated. Breakdown in the EGR cooler causes the damage and no one knows why some EGRs breakdown and some do not. Whether it be faulty EGRs, driving style or something else that causes the EGR oil cooler to breakdown and damage the engine.

Find a VW/VAG specialist (probably doesn't even have to be a van specialist, just a VW specialist) and explain the situation to see what options they have. It might be repairable for less than a swap if everything else is good. VW aren't interested in such an approach as they like to just replace bits, but an independent who knows what they're doing may take a different attitute.

If it does need changing, second hand engines obtained from a scrappy are definitely cheaper that VW will be, the labour cost will be making up half of the cost I should think. I would see exactly what VW are including in their cost, e.g. is it just the engine, or does it include turbo, intercoolers, gearbox etc. etc. - given how VW approach things, I wouldn't be surprised if they don't include a load of ancillaries as part of the "package" as they consider them a single system.

If going second hand, it's making sure the engine is decent (and I know, that's not easy to diagnose). It's unlikely a scrappy engine will have much or any history, so you'll be looking at things like compression, state of the turbos (things like impeller shaft play, sticking variable vane actuator if it has one), oil condition, "mayo" under the oil cap, state of timing/aux belts etc. - a lot of unknowns, although theoretically nothing worse than the risk you'd take on a second hand vehicle anyway.

Trouble is that you could end up buying similar engine (ie - knackered / problem 180) as a replacement engine and being in exactly the same position but a few £ down. Van would also be very difficult to sell at a later date versus having a new warrantied engine fitted; Plus everytime the van burnt slightly more oil than normal your heart would sink.

Trouble is that you could end up buying similar engine (ie - knackered / problem 180) as a replacement engine and being in exactly the same position but a few £ down. Van would also be very difficult to sell at a later date versus having a new warrantied engine fitted; Plus everytime the van burnt slightly more oil than normal your heart would sink.

Very true, hence my big list of caveats! VW say though that up to a 1 litre per miles (or km?) or something is "normal" apparently - that always used to get my goat. I've never actually had a VAG engine that has used any oil, but that's how I think it should be - if it's consuming up to a litre per whatever, that's suggesting something is poorly made somewhere!

Following with interest as understood that the issue was more with earlier vans. We are potentially looking at a 180 later this week.

For a new engine would bite the bullet and go with VW replacement, then you have a proper warranty and will be easier to sell on a later date. If plan to keep the van long term then engine is worth replacing.

Or sell the 180 van to Webuyanycar / Motorway as it is and take a loss on the price. Then buy similar age 140 /150bhp van and get the engine remapped. Overall cost to you will be far cheaper than a replacement engine.

A bit beside the question: why getting the engine remapped ? To make it more powerful ? My California has the 150bhp, and ok, it's not like my motorbike, but it's fine for travelling with a Van: it's not a race car ... The whole thing about a custom remap is just that; it can be customised. Stock engine maps are intended to hit specific criteria the manufacturer wants to see achieved, usually around emissions and peak power figures (to please those that just look at a single number).

From a performance perspective, the shape and total area under the power curve is far more relevant than the peak number. A good example are your "classic" rev-happy Japanese cars of the 90s, e.g. Celica T-Sports, which popped out a good bhp number and impressive acceleration times, but nothing happened until the last few 1k rpm of the power curve so you had to be "on it" to get the power out of it. Compare that to something with a good percentage of it's power being delivered a mid-range and a steady build in bhp from there as you rise through the rpm range, would be far more driveable and probably quicker in the real world as you're not having to constantly stir the gearbox to keep in the power band.

Personally I am happy enough with the 150 engine characteristics, but if there was one thing I'd want changing is increasing the rpms the DSG box shifts from 1st to 2nd. It really grates me how it "slurs" into 2nd gear from barely a standstill; it feels like it's burning away at the clutch plates!

Edit: just before the whole torque vs power thing comes in, to clarify, loads of torque at a very low rpm will give apparent driveability but not if that torque isn't sustained (because otherwise you'll need to keep changing up gears, then you lose the gearing advantage and the acceleration suffers). Power is a function of torque and rpm; the ideal characteristics give enough torque low down to make the engine "punchy", but to maintain enough torque towards the top of the rpm range to keep that flexibility, so you can launch an overtake in 3rd at 2k rpm and it's still pulling strong as it approaches the red line.

Hi forum,

I would have wished that my first post would have been on a different topic, but here we are.

We have received the sad news that our 180 Cali needs a new engine, since the current one has been considered defect (excessive oil use, EGR valve with C suffix etc. etc.). We have no insurance or warranty left to cover this, but besides this, we love the car and everything else on it working flawlessly except for the engine, so we just want to swallow the bitter pill, get the engine replaced and move on with our lives, preferably with the car.

VW has given us a price estimate around 15-16K euro for fitting a new engine, and we're now thinking about going somewhere else to get it fixed and hopefully save some money. My question is - what should we think about when talking to potential garages? Which parts of the engine do we want to make sure is changed, not to end up in the same situation again? Do we want to get an original engine from VW? Are refurbished engines from e.g. Poland to be aware of, or could that be a feasible alternative? In short - I want to gather all information I can to ensure this is done right, and would appreciate all help and advice you could provide.

may help if you have an installing garage sourced.

VW Transporter T5.1 / T6 180bhp CFCA code crate engine, brand new genuine VW 03LAX

VW Transporter T5.1 / T6 180bhp CFCA code crate engine, brand new genuine VW 03LAX Description This is a 2.0 BiTDi 180ps CFCA code 'crate engine' Includes: Block Cylinder head all internals including Crank, pistons, injectors etc Fitmen

Is it worth doing the work…?
I would consider scraping the van, selling for parts and ordering a new one (if the VW mega deal is still going).
Sometimes, you just have to draw a line and put it down to experience…

Don't be ridiculous, clearly telling someone to consider scraping a vehicle of that value is not at all helpful. Breaking it yourself for parts is clearly out of most people's reach and selling it for scrap to a breakers would leave you awfully out of pocket, they will give you peanuts for it, and then fix the engine and sell it on themselves.

Hi forum,

I would have wished that my first post would have been on a different topic, but here we are.

We have received the sad news that our 180 Cali needs a new engine, since the current one has been considered defect (excessive oil use, EGR valve with C suffix etc. etc.). We have no insurance or warranty left to cover this, but besides this, we love the car and everything else on it working flawlessly except for the engine, so we just want to swallow the bitter pill, get the engine replaced and move on with our lives, preferably with the car.

VW has given us a price estimate around 15-16K euro for fitting a new engine, and we're now thinking about going somewhere else to get it fixed and hopefully save some money. My question is - what should we think about when talking to potential garages? Which parts of the engine do we want to make sure is changed, not to end up in the same situation again? Do we want to get an original engine from VW? Are refurbished engines from e.g. Poland to be aware of, or could that be a feasible alternative? In short - I want to gather all information I can to ensure this is done right, and would appreciate all help and advice you could provide.

Hi,
Sorry to hear about your van, how many miles/Kms has the van done?
Matt

Sometimes pure hard headed logic needs applying in that is a new van with an outlay of £80K+ with first year depreciation possibly equal to the cost of an engine replacement the best option?

Other than status would a new van provide any different level of use benefits or just bring the issues that come with the T6.1 (leaking roof and various electronic related problems)

What are these various electronic problems?
I have a 6.1 and only had the DSG gear selector replaced under warranty.
The rear sticky hot button climate control module and the passenger side window finger trap adjusted.
Otherwise, 15 months trouble free.

Commiserations to the OP
I wondered if you would put some more info.
How old are you, how long are you going to keep the vehicle for after the £10k work is done?

In my scenario, I bought new as I want to know where the California has been at the birth.
I’m going to be paying it off and keeping for 20 years.
As it will be my do anything vehicle.
What scenarios will you be using the California for, for the next 10 years ?
If a new engine can be installed by VW, how long is the warranty ?
If you can get a warranty for 5 years on the engine and new parts?
Will the new engine be devoid of the main issue with the 180 engine?
Something about metal ending up in the piston liners and scraping lines in the metal is it ?
Leading to failure.
But a good start to come to the forum and ask question for sure.
I’d also find a specialist VAG mechanic who has been around for 10 years + and get a quote, like for like with VWCV

Hi forum,

I would have wished that my first post would have been on a different topic, but here we are.

We have received the sad news that our 180 Cali needs a new engine, since the current one has been considered defect (excessive oil use, EGR valve with C suffix etc. etc.). We have no insurance or warranty left to cover this, but besides this, we love the car and everything else on it working flawlessly except for the engine, so we just want to swallow the bitter pill, get the engine replaced and move on with our lives, preferably with the car.

VW has given us a price estimate around 15-16K euro for fitting a new engine, and we're now thinking about going somewhere else to get it fixed and hopefully save some money. My question is - what should we think about when talking to potential garages? Which parts of the engine do we want to make sure is changed, not to end up in the same situation again? Do we want to get an original engine from VW? Are refurbished engines from e.g. Poland to be aware of, or could that be a feasible alternative? In short - I want to gather all information I can to ensure this is done right, and would appreciate all help and advice you could provide.

If the rest of the van is in great condition I would get the VW engine.

You personally get peace of mind for your ownership and a good resale at some future point.
Pay the money and don’t take the risk of losing more through a repeat of the engine failure and/or an unsellable van.