Oil Additive Question - Straight Dope Message Board

You have engine wear with worn/stuck oil control rings and or leaky valve stem seals. The oil smoke while idling pretty well suggests this. I once owned a 76 Vega and later an 83’ Malibu that I drove for 22 years. Both of these vehicles had leaky valve seals that caused smoking badly on startup and while idling for periods. While I am not generally a fan of oil additives, I have always been a fan of STP oil products. This excessive smoking almost completely abated when I used STP in the engines. The overall oil consumption was not reduced so much, but this annoying smoke problem was. It costs very little to try this and it won’t hurt anything.

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Oil consumption is not a major problem in itself. The vehicle can run almost forever as long as you keep the oil level up. Don’t skimp on topping it off and never depend on gauges or lights to tell you to add oil. Check the stick yourself and top off. All that oil usage is bound to cause your converter to go bad if not already. And the oxygen sensors are probably already giving you an orange light on the dash. You can’t afford to fix all these things without doing everything including the engine so I advise limping along and getting the most out of it without spending big cash. If you can put your own oxygen sensor in yourself for $30 it might last 20,000 miles or so, just a guess. Don’t go overboard.

no, not really. it might help a little bit by increasing the viscosity of your oil, but you could get a similar effect with just using a higher viscosity oil in the first place.

The other thing those oil treatments usually do is add a bunch of ZDDP, which was traditionally put in motor oils as an anti-wear additive. ZDDP content has been reduced significantly in newer API specs because it can harm the catalytic converter.

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In some rare cases where the oil control rings are stuck due to varnish build-up, certain additives could help unstick them and reduce the oil burning. Of course, those additives are basically solvents and don’t help any with actual lubrication. If the problem is worn rings, which is more common, additives aren’t going to do much, if any, good.

I agree that it won’t hurt to try a can of STP, though of course it won’t necessarily help. I also agree that so long as the oil level is maintained, the engine may run okay for quite a while. If it gets to the point where spark plugs are being fouled rather quickly, then it becomes a less manageable problem, but cross that bridge when you come to it.

ETA: I worry about using SAE 40 oil. It’s not going to flow well in a cold engine (as in has sat for several hours, regardless of the outside temp) and could hasten the engine’s ultimate demise.

Most of the time, worn seals are the issue-an experienced mechanic can determine if the oil burning is due to worn seals or worn rings/scored cylinder walls. It involves checking the compression in each cylinder-then squirting in a bit of engine oil-if the compression comes up, it is worn rings or scored walls. This is a rare condtiion-most of the time, it is the valve seals. Replacing these is pretty cheap-for a 4 cylinder engine , usually $300-$400 (depending how accessable the engine head is).
Now for the fun: sometimes, an old-time mechanic trick will work-but it is a dangerous procedure (add too much and you can destroy the engine). The procedure is to add a few ounces of brake fluid to the sump-the brake fluid will soften the seals and cause them to swell-temporarily stopping the oil burning.
This works…sometimes. If you want to keep the car, i’d go the replacement seals route (if the rings are still good).

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