Gloss coat question..... - General Discussion - SWAYLOCKS

My understanding (correct me if wrong) is correct procedure is:

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LAM
Hotcoat
Sand to nice finish
Gloss

However I always find myself doing more than one hot coat (sanding much of it off to get a PERFECT finish before gloss coating)
I am trying to keep weight down on the current board and would like to avoid this. I have sanded the hot coat and its pretty damn good, with just a few patches where cloth is visible around the tail. I don’t want to brush over those spots with resin because I always find it turns into a vicious circle when feathering in, and I ended up (last time) hot coating the whole board again anyway after 2 days of sanding and screaming!!!
SO… my question is, do people do gloss coats over a sanded hot coat when a few cloth patches are visible? Or is it a MUST to make sure NO cloth is visible anywhere before glossing?
thanks y’all

Thats interesting thanks. Sorry, yes I am using PE resin.
I think I have overdone the resin in the past. All my previous boards were fairly heavy. I don’t like super lightweight boards anyway so I wasn’t too bothered, but the current project does need to be as light as possible as its for my younger son and its got to compete with one of his shop bought boards so I want to try and make a light board. All my previous boards went something like this (when I was gloss coating)…

Lam, hot coat, sand, oh shit, hot coat again, sand, oh shit, hot coat again, hmm, ok, gloss coat. sand polish

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Hence - heavy boards

this time I sanded my hot coat more carefully and only a few small areas where a bit of cloth is showing, obviously it can’t go in water like that, but in the past I thought that needed hot coating over BEFORE glossing, as I saw the gloss coat as an EXTRA layer put on a finished (water ready) board to add the shine. i now realise (hence this thread, asking if i am right) that the gloss coat is strong enough to BE that final layer provided the sanded hot coat underneath is 90% sound. Hoping that’s right, as that’s what I am doing with this board!

I don’t have styrene (only wax in styrene). I have tried doing patchwork brushes of resin before (over burn throughs) but I always ended up making more burn throughs when feathering it into the undercoat! Obviously my skills are lacking!
thanks again

Most shop shortboards are just sanded then sprayed with some acrylic “varnish”. Very often, sanding will have been performed by a guy who cares only about how many boards he can sand in one day since he gets paid per board. You can’t expect that these guys will pay much attention to critical areas like nose, tail and rails. You’d better not see those boards before they spray them, it would make you relativize your own small sand-throughs… No wonder performance shortboards are light, but then they are not supposed to last, either. Making a light board is easy, anybody can do it by using ultra-light foam, 1 x 4oz layer top and bottom, sanding down to the cloth and using a spray instead of a real finish coat. That’s fine as long as you can afford ten boards a year or more… We have come to the point where three fins with their boxes installed weigh more than a glassed blank…

yes very good point, it’s actually the single reason I started making boards. With 5 kids all into surfing, I got sick of the constant “i need a new board” due to fashion partly, but more due to the lack of durability of the boards. Of course, like a refrigerator or toaster, the shitter it is, the more people will have to buy when they constantly go wrong. Surfing industry isn’t the leader of this new wave but it can’t help but take part as to compete with the big companies you have to give room somewhere. Its sad, but I got sick of it and thats why I am anal about the boards, if I am making them for my fussy kids, they need to not just be as good as, but BETTER than the boards they can buy in the shops, and I am getting there now which is hugely rewarding. F*ck the ultra lightweight, “use for one season then come see us again!” crap!!

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