3rd Gen 4Runner Buyer's Guide

Jun. 30, 2025

3rd Gen 4Runner Buyer's Guide

STRAWBERRY MILKSHAKE: Radiator/ Transmission Failure (automatic transmissions only)
While it is a rare occurrence, the most notorious and costly of the known issues is by far, the “strawberry milkshake.” Also known as the ‘pink milkshake’, the cause of the issue is in the pipes in the lower part of the radiator that cools the transmission. The lines are known to corrode and allow the mixing of engine coolant and transmission coolant fluids. The root of this corrosion is from the buildup of minerals in the radiator, regular coolant flushing is a good way to slow this buildup.

When the two fluids mix, the mixture overflows into the coolant overflow reservoir with a fluid that looks a lot like a strawberry milkshake (may be a different color if you dont have TOYOTA red coolant..). If the mixture manages to return to the transmission, it can cause catastrophic damage. Often resulting in a ruined transmission. When a milkshake strikes, you will notice your transmission will not want to shift or hold a gear when moving.

-As stated above, this will only happen to trucks with automatic transmissions. This typically starts to become a concern when the truck gets to be about 8-10 years old. Or even sooner if it is a rusty truck.

Red flags:
As far as detecting one that may have already happened.. When the seller mentions anything about a replaced radiator and transmission having been completely flushed at the same time, that is a BIG sign. If it has a new or rebuilt transmission, make sure it was a dealer install or at least a certified Toyota mechanic. However, if immediate action is taken when a milkshake hits (pull over, shut down, tow to mechanic), the transmission can be saved and should be just fine after a few flushes and a new radiator.

And for predicting one that may be coming.. Regularity of coolant flushes and vehicle age are the only ways. Service records are important for this reason.

Fixes/ How to avoid:
Except for regular coolant flushes as I mentioned before, there are two ways to really avoid a strawberry milkshake. The first is to just replace the radiator before anything happens; every 8 years is a good interval to set for replacement. The second way to avoid the milkshake is to install an external transmission cooler that is separate from the radiator. This removes the possibility of the milkshake ever happening as the radiator and coolant are removed from the equation. Or, if you’re wanting to really do it right, do both of these things. The new radiator will be about $150 (Koyo A) and the external transmission cooler will be at least $60 (B&M ).

Which method to choose?
-The new radiator is the better option, as these trucks are ready for a new one anyway with the age they are getting to.
-Those in extremely hot climates are advised to go with a bigger external cooler. The B&M is the bigger one, compared to the that most people get.
-Those who tow more than normal or wheel the truck often are advised to go with both, get all the cooling you can get! (external cooler in series with radiator cooling from new radiator)
-Even though both options will have a cold fluid bypass valve, those in cold climates are advised to at least opt for the new radiator, as it supposedly helps to warm the transmission during the first few minutes.

-As just mentioned, it is a rare failure. But, the costs of preventative maintenance outweigh the costs of repair by thousands of dollars. That is why we stress the fixes as much as we do.

Resource Threads:
Photo courtesy of .

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RUST

The 4runner is susceptible to rust just as any other vehicle is. As you should know, it is mainly caused from driving on salted winter roads, in humid areas, and even if you are dumb enough to drive on the beach. The main places you will find the rust is on the frame, trailer hitch, suspension components and rear axle.

Red flags:
There are a few areas where you can be aware of rust without looking under the truck, such as the trailer hitch, wheel wells and bumpers. If there are not any provided pictures of the undercarriage of the vehicle, request some from the seller. Also, watch out for areas where rust may have been spray painted over. The area will look very bumpy and corroded as if rust was there, but have a fresh coat of paint on it.

Fixes/ How to Avoid:
There are a few ways to avoid rusting on your vehicle. One is to coat the under body of the vehicle with petroleum based oil, motor oil works fine but is illegal to use is some states. There are also other specialized products that are made for this application.

Here is some on a rear axle.

Photo courtesy of .

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WARPED BRAKE ROTORS/ DEATH WOBBLE

The design of the OEM 4Runner brake rotors is a poor. The rotors are too thin. During periods of heavy, constant braking, the brakes can easily overheat and become warped. This problem is even more common on 4runners that are lifted and have larger tires. The shuddering when braking with severely warped rotors can be so violent that it can nearly cause loss of control of the vehicle. Warped rotors can also cause issues with the Anti-lock braking system trying to kick in while braking.

Fixes/ How to Avoid:
If you are just going to replace the rotors, get ones that are drilled or slotted to help it stay cooler. Although, this way there is less braking surface. The best option is to swap the entire brake assembly (calipers, rotors, and pads) with that of a 1st generation Toyota Tundra (-). This "Tundra Brake upgrade" has many advantages to a slotted/drilled OEM replacement. With tundra brakes, the braking power is significantly increased, the rotors last longer, and they are not as vulnerable to warping (all rotors are vulnerable, depending on driving style).

Other Info:
This upgrade is a direct bolt on replacement. The tundra brake calipers are available in 2 sizes, 199mm and 231mm, both diameters require new rotors that are much thicker than the 4runner rotors so they wont warp as easily. The 231mm (13WL) calipers will fit in the OEM 16" wheels, but just barely. The 199mm (S13WE) calipers are a bit smaller than the 231 and fit inside the wheel nearly the same as the bigger of the stock 4runner calipers (on limiteds and sports), they are also a little bit cheaper option most of the time. Both caliper sizes will need new pads and rotors (same size rotor for both sizes of caliper). The parts for this upgrade can cost over $300, but can be well worth it.

Tundra Brake Upgrade - PC'd my Calipers High Gloss Red - YotaTech Forums
Tundra Rotors vs. 4Runner Rotors

Photo courtesy of .

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LOWER BALL JOINT FAILURE

Don't get too freaked out, this is also a fairly uncommon problem. It is mostly an issue of failure to maintain, or if someone disregarded the Recall. In , Toyota recalled over 3/4 of a million 3rd gen 4Runners for this exact issue. The issue is that the Lower ball joint, which holds the spindle and control arms together, can rupture while driving. This will cause the wheel to fall off, break the CV axle on that side, and cause total loss of control which can lead to an accident. The lower ball joint can wear faster than normal on trucks that are lifted, have an aftermarket bumper, and larger tires. This issue will become a concern if the vehicle was called for recall and never brought in, or if the Ball Joints have a very large number of miles on them.

Red Flags:
Stuff like this is the reason you want to test drive. There is only a few ways to know about this potential hazard. If there is any front end noise, rough feeling when steering then that is a sign of trouble ahead. You can lift up the truck and check for excessive play in the front hub. A visual check is also a good way, look for old and worn out material, leaking grease, etc. Just do a quick forum search of 'lower ball joint' and you will find all kinds of stuff.

Instructions to check for excessive ball joint play: Fixes/ How to Avoid:
It's simple really, just swap them before something bad happens. Only advice I can give is to only use OEM parts, there are so many horror stories about people using cheap aftermarket brands like Moog. A few members have also figured out that the OEM Tacoma LBJ from the same years are stronger than the 4runner LBJ, link below.
As stated earlier, there was a large-scale recall on this issue, mostly on the '99-'02 years. Stop by your dealer with your VIN and see if your vehicle is still pending the recall.

To check the Toyota maintenance records on your 4runner, register the VIN on Toyota Owners' website:
http://www.toyota.com/owners/web/pages/home

Resource threads: Recall information: Motor Trend- 4Runner Recall

Photo courtesy of .

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Small Common Problems:
Just a few more small things to take a look at while you are looking for a 4runner.

Dead Clock.
The clocks on all 3rd gens are known to just die all of the sudden. No warning sings, but easy fix. You can also just get one from a junkyard 4runner.
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Rear Coil Springs Sagging.
Earlier 3rd gens had a recall on the rear springs, but all 3rd gens are known to sag. Almost any 4runner you go to look at will be sagging. Best fix is to get new OEM springs or go ahead and get lifted. The springs from a are going to be taller than other springs, so if you replace yours, ask for springs from a 99 SR5 4x4 3.4L V6.
- - Power Antenna Motor Failure.
A very common issue. The gears in the power antenna motor can grind and get broken. Also if the antenna gets bent, it will not go down properly and will also cause the gears to grind. The common fix is to swap the motorized antenna assembly with a non-motorized antenna out of a 1st generation Tacoma. Search "Tacoma Whip mod" for more info.
- Leaking Rear Axle Seal
The cause of this issue is the seal at the bearings on the rear axle. The failure in question is credited to a few things; one is the apparent poor design or quality of the OEM axle seals. Another is a failure of the axle breather plug to not accommodate the changes in pressures inside the axle. It is also common for this to occur when you switch to the thinner Synthetic Fluids. It is noticeable by a large amount of grease that will cover the rear tires and wheels. When you notice a seal has begun to leak, you can either have a dealer replace them, or do it yourself with the help of the write-up that has been linked to below. ====================================================================
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Regular Maintenance Items:

Here is a thread that will help with many of the maintenance, repairs and modifications you may need to get done. Links to all of the below maintenance items can be found here.

Another good resource to check out is the NCTTORA FSM, it contains diagrams and step by step instructions for prettymuch every single component on these trucks. -TIMING BELT / WATER PUMP- Every 90k miles. This service costs $600-$700 at most dealers. Make sure the seller is up to date on this one!

-TRANSMISSION FLUID- About every 40k miles. At the dealer: $80 transmission service.

-DIFFERENTIAL FLUIDS & ENGINE COOLANT- About every 30k miles. At the dealer: $130 4x4 differentials service.

-LOWER BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT- About every 150k miles. Sooner on lifted vehicles.

-SPARK PLUGS & WIRES- Every 30-40k miles. Less than $50 for everything, easy DIY.

-ENGINE OIL- 3k miles for regular oil, 6k miles for synthetic.

-Everything else like lights and brakes are based on usage and not necessarily miles.

The 3rd gen 4runner is often regarded as the most reliable and dependable of all the 4runners. The 3.4L V6 developed by Hino (owned by Toyota) was designed specifically to be a trouble-free workhorse. When properly maintained, your 4runner will go well beyond 400k miles and last for generations to come.

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Transfer Case differences:
The 4wd t-cases in the 3rd gen 4runners varied through the years and trim models as well. ALL 4runners are 2wd vehicles (rear wheel drive) until some form of 4wd is engaged.

-Let’s start with base, SR5, and Highlander trim models. The transfer case remained the same for these models from to . It was a basic J-shaped shifting configuration. This transfer case was purely mechanical, no push button components.

-The limited 4runners had a little bit different setup though. From -, Toyota used a push button on the shifter to engage 4Hi from 2wd. The only time you actually need to shift the transfer case is to go into 4Lo.

-In ’99-’00, the limited upgraded from a standard transfer case with push button, over to a differential type transfer case (known as Multi-Mode). This type of transfer case still has a push button to engage 4wd from 2wd. A differential type t-case is different from a standard t-case in that the front and rear drive shafts could rotate independent of each other and avoid binding on high traction surfaces. Until this center differential was locked, the vehicle is essentially in all wheel drive (discussed more below).
To lock the T-case, you simply shift from 4Hi to 4Hi(L).

-In and , all models gained these Multi-Mode transfer cases (including limited, now they all have the same system). But, the locking method changed from a separate shifting position to a separate push button on the dash. I HIGHLY encourage you to read this thread skillfully written by . It is more in depth and contains information such as recommended speeds, shifting configurations, Pictures, Uses, and more differences.
The information above is a summary of the information in his thread.

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Rear diff E-locker vs. Center diff locker:

Rear E-locker
-On all - 4Runners, there was an option to add an electronic locking rear differential. It was never standard on any trim package, just an option. The e-locker was discontinued after and was not offered again on the 4runner until (trail edition). FJ cruisers and Tacomas also had e-lockers (TRD off-road package). If you are unable to find a 4runner with one, they can be swapped in to any 4runner from '96-'02. Most elocker retrofits cost an average of $500.

What is it?
Lockers are actuators that are fit inside the differentials of vehicles' axles. When the rear e-locker is engaged, the rear axle is locked together and both rear wheels must always spin at the same speed. A locked axle must NEVER be used on road. When the e-locker is disengaged, the axle again operates as an 'open' diff. This rear e-locker is helpful in very low traction off road situations, when an ‘open’ diff is hindering progress by allowing one of the wheels on an axle to spin while the other wheel that actually has traction receives no power.

Factory settings only allow the e-locker to be engaged if the vehicle is already in 4Lo. There is a modification known as the " " that can be done to allow it to be activated at any time, but before you do that be sure you are aware of why Toyota set it up that way.. The e-locker is supposed to only be used when even 4Lo is not enough. For 99% of drivers out there, they will never even see a time when 4Lo is not enough.

The button to engage the e-locker is found on the dash to the left of the steering wheel. It says "RR Diff Lock" in orange print.

To better understand diffs and lockers, watch this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIGvhvOhLHU

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Center diff locker/ Multi-Mode AWD
A Center differential is a special type of transfer case that can be unlocked/locked. But as we just covered, only ’01-’02 4runners and ’99-’00 limited 4runners had this Multi-mode ability to unlock/lock the center diff.

As discussed earlier, AWD (all wheel drive) is when the front and rear drive-shafts leaving the transfer-case can rotate independent of each other. AWD (center diff unlocked/open) is the only safe way to deliver power to all four wheels on high traction surfaces such as paved roads. Think of this as another "open" Diff, but instead of wheels at the end of these drive-shafts (axles), there is just the front or rear diff & axles. AWD is meant for ice covered roads where "true 4x4" should still not be used. True 4x4 is where the center diff is locked like a regular transfer-case always is. With this transfer case locked, both front and rear drive-shafts must spin at the same speed. Having the center diff locked is bad for on road use becuase when you corner, the front wheels make a larger diameter turn than the rear wheels And that means the rear drive-shaft needs to spin at a different speed to keep pace with the front.. which it cant if the transfer-case is locked.

-On - Limiteds, the locking method was a separate shifting position.
-On all the & models, the button to lock/unlock the center diff replaced the button for the discontinued e-locker:

In terms of off road ability, the unlock/lock feature on the Multi-Mode t-case does not add anything. It only helps sketchy on road conditions. The rear e-locker is the only option above normal 4wd that actually increases off road ability.

How do I choose between these?

-If you live in an area with ice covered winter roads, heavy rain, and you tend to be more of a city driver, the Multi-mode selectable AWD is going to be indispensable to you. It makes icy roads easy to tackle.

-If you tend to do more off-roading and plan to modify the 4runner for a trails vehicle, the rear e-locker is going to help you a lot with that goal.

-The '99-'00 limited 4runner had both of these if you can find one with the e-locker option.

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TRAC/VSC:

To replace the E-locker that was discontinued after , Toyota equipped ALL & 4Runners with a few electronic systems in it's place. TRAC (traction control) & VSC (vehicle stability control).
Basically, these systems use the brakes to control vehicle stability and traction. While the normal everyday driver will not notice these systems in operation, owners who drive their vehicles in a "spirited" manner will notice interference from these systems. In low-traction road conditions (dirt roads, wet pavement, etc..), drivers may easily cause either of these systems to interfere in attempt to control the vehicle in the event of loss of traction.

Disabling TRAC/VSC:
With a few small exceptions, these systems were not able to be disabled from the factory. Many owners choose to make it possible to manually disable these systems.

-2wd 4Runners came with a factory switch to disable TRAC & VSC.

-On 4wd's, VSC is disabled when the vehicle is in 4x4 with the center differential locked. TRAC still remains on in this situation. This is the ideal setup for most off road situations, as TRAC helps in most situations by acting as a limited slip differential for all 4 wheels. Situations where it is best to also be without TRAC would include deep sand and mud

-Members on Yotatech(.com) discovered a way to add a switch to be able to turn off both TRAC & VSC at any time. Known as the Andymod 2.0.

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5-Speed manual transmission:

The 3rd gen 4runner was also available with a 5-speed manual transmission. The 5-speed is often preferred for its off road uses, increased fuel economy, and the lack of the Strawberry milkshake issue.

Similar to the E-locker and 4cyl engine, the 5-speed was discontinued after . Also, the 5-speed was NEVER available on the Limited 4Runner.

Photo courtesy of .

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4-Cylinder - 3RZ-FE:

The 3rd gen 4runner was also available with a 4 Cylinder engine. The 3RZ-FE is often compared to the 3.4L V6 in most other 3rd gens.

The advantages to the this engine are that it has a timing chain vs. a Timing belt in the V6. So that's one less thing to have to maintain. The 4cyl also gets slightly better Mpgs, I'm talking like 2-3mpg increase over the v6. As far as reliability, both of these engines are extremely solid pieces of machinery. Both are known to last beyond 300k+ miles without problems. But becuase of the timing chain, the reliability award goes to the 4cyl.

The Disadvantages, however, are obvious. This engine is a snail.. the 3.4 is known to be a slow engine, so imagine how the 4cyl feels. Also, the 4cyl is only available on the base model 4runners, so if you plan on getting a higher-up trim model, its a no-go on the 4Cyl. And don't ever plan on towing anything significant. While it's an excellent engine, it just doesn't have the power to keep up.

Similar to the E-locker and 5-speed trans, the 4-cyl was discontinued after .

Photo courtesy of .

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Toyota 5W 30 Oil Price in Your Complete Buying Guide

Starting your journey with a clear vision of quality and cost, this guide is designed for those curious about Toyota 5W30 oil. You will discover practical advice and up-to-date pricing tips that help you make informed decisions for your engine’s optimal performance.

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How to Find the Best Price for Toyota 5W-30 Oil

When searching for the best deal on Toyota 5W-30 oil, begin by comparing prices through well-known price comparison tools. You should always check authorized dealers to ensure you are buying genuine products and avoid counterfeit merchandise. Reliable synthetic oil brands and trusted online reviews ensure that the prices you see reflect true market value for both AED and SAR.

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Visit authorized dealers and inquire about seasonal promotional packages.
Use mobile apps dedicated to price comparison that include details on viscosity grades and engine protection benefits.
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Top price guidance for includes the following range in major cities:

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Visual and Performance Verification

Consistently check for the holographic seal and ensure the printed production date follows the DD/MM/YYYY format.
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Recommended Change Intervals

Urban driving:Change every 8-10 months.
Predominantly highway travel:Change every 12-14 months.
Frequent short trips (<5 km):Consider changing every 6-8 months to maintain proper engine lubrication.

Storage Best Practices

Store unopened oil containers in well-ventilated areas below 35°C to preserve quality.
Make sure to use the product within 2 years of the manufacture date to avoid degradation.
Related links:
The Best Places to Buy Prosthetic Cosmetic Online and In-Store
Blog • The Benefits of Smart Irrigation Upgrades: Little Cha - jcsud
7 Uses for an Induction Heating Machine + How to Make One
If you are looking for more details, kindly visit Toyota Oil Seal.
Avoid mixing different API grades to prevent adverse reactions.

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Local authorized car centers often list prices that meet GCC certification standards.
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Red Flags to Watch Out For

Significantly lower prices compared to market averages may indicate counterfeit products.
Retailers lacking proper documentation such as batch numbers should be avoided.
Offers that do not clearly state compliance with GCC standards warrant further verification.

FAQ

Q1:What factors most influence the Toyota 5W-30 oil price in ?

Although market trends, logistics, and GCC certification costs play essential roles, regional economic conditions also impact the final price. Your local dealers adjust prices based on changes in raw materials and manufacturing processes. You might notice seasonal promotions or bulk discounts over time. Always confirm the current price with reputable sources to ensure reliability.

Q2:How can I verify that the Toyota 5W-30 oil purchased is genuine?

To ensure authenticity, carefully check for holographic seals and embossed viscosity codes such as T-5W30-23E. Trust only authorized dealers who follow GCC certification guidelines. A verified production date and clear label information further confirm you have a genuine product. Should you notice abnormal oil characteristics, consult a trusted auto care center immediately.

Q3:Is it safe to store Toyota 5W-30 oil for extended periods?

You need to maintain oil quality by storing it in controlled conditions below 35°C. Unopened containers, when stored properly, can maintain their standards for up to 2 years. However, exposure to extreme temperatures may degrade the product. Following manufacturer storage instructions is recommended for prolonged shelf life.

Q4:Why should I consider changing my Toyota 5W-30 oil at different intervals?

Different driving conditions directly affect how your engine oil performs. For city driving with frequent stops and short trips, more frequent oil changes help maintain optimal engine protection. Highway driving, in contrast, often allows for longer intervals due to consistent operating temperatures. Adjusting change intervals according to your usage ensures efficiency and longevity of your engine.

This article is provided for informational purposes and is based on current market insights. Please consult local laws and regulations for the most accurate and up-to-date compliance requirements.